In Harmony with the Muslim Community: Christmas in Pakistan (Photo: Qantara.de)

"Happy Christmas!" – "Same to you" Akram Masih responds with a smile that makes his moustache bob up and down. Akram is 45 years old, married and the father of seven children. Like most of the residents of what is known as France Colony, he works as an assistant and cleaner at the Capital Development Authority, Islamabad's local government authority in Pakistan.

It's shortly before midnight and in the narrow, winding alleyways and uneven pathways of France Colony, a slum situated within a wealthy Islamabad district, a lively, cheerful atmosphere reigns. People are congratulating and hugging each other, some are warming themselves in the icy cold by the wood fire, as there is no gas here. The scent of sweet and hearty food wafts through the chilly air from kitchen fires.

Midnight mass from the loudspeaker

People are singing Christmas carols. The sound of Bollywood film classics can be heard from some of the houses. In the small Protestant church, the pastor utters a few words into the loudspeaker as midnight mass gets underway. The church is well attended by equal numbers of men and women.

The women are wearing the colourful and traditional Pakistani national dress, known as salwar kameez. Long silk scarves, known as dupatta, provide an extra layer of cover for the chest area in addition to the loose-fitting dresses, and drape easily over the women's backs.

The pastor holds the entire mass in Urdu, the local lingua franca and the national language of Pakistan. The mass is concluded with a recitation of the "Our Father" prayer, the Christmas cake is cut and shared with everyone in the parish church. Musical accompaniment to the mass is provided by a dholak drum and a harmonium.

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By Nusrat Sheikh

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